TIAN: A Pioneering Vegetarian Paradise in Vienna

A Pioneering Vegetarian Paradise in Vienna

As a chef and a fervent explorer of innovative dining, TIAN impressed me with its Michelin star and bold commitment to transforming vegetarian cuisine into an art form. My experience at TIAN was nothing short of a revelation, a journey through flavors, traditions, and visionary culinary techniques. The restaurant, buzzing with the energy of its patrons, many like myself eager to delve into vegetarian marvels, was a warm welcome from the chilly Viennese weather outside.

The Philosophy of TIAN

TIAN is a French vegetarian stew and means “heaven” in Chinese. It embodies a philosophy of food that is both nourishing and exquisite. TIAN was founded by Christian Halper, a visionary who believes in the power of vegetarian cuisine when executed at the highest level. The restaurant showcases forgotten vegetables, rare grains, and an array of unique ingredients that find new life on the plate, supported by a network of regional suppliers committed to organic and fair practices. The dishes on the menu often have a Japanese influence.

A Culinary Symphony in Eight Acts

The journey began with a beautifully curated 8-course tasting menu, highlighted by an optional addition of their signature truffle pasta. Each dish was a statement of creativity and respect for ingredients. The meal commenced with a trio of canapés: pea pannacotta, juneberry taco, and a visually stunning ishikura* choux. The light, earthy flavors set a refined stage for what was to come.

Starters Reinvented

My culinary adventure at TIAN started with a beautifully crafted delica pumpkin and trompette mushroom dish. With its light yet flavorful composition, the dish was a delightful surprise. The pumpkin and amazake* sabayon added a subtle Japanese touch. The earthy flavors of the mushrooms and the nutty sweetness of the pumpkin blended seamlessly, hinting at the innovative culinary journey ahead.

Following the opener, the next course presented a creative vegetarian twist on the traditional Borsch. Crafted with finely sliced robuschka beetroots, kefir, and dill, this dish transformed the essence of the classic soup into something uniquely fresh yet familiar.

A Celebration of Bread

At TIAN, the ‘Back to the Roots’ course, seemingly simple, offered a unique combination of flavors that exceeded expectations. It transformed what many might consider a side dish into the star of the show. The sourdough was central to this celebration. The crisp and flavorful Schüttelbrot*, an Austrian flatbread known as ‘shake bread,’ complemented the soft sourdough perfectly. The accompaniments were diverse and thoughtful. They included homemade cultured butter that melted on the warm bread, a tangy fermented bread drink, and fresh sides such as purple sprouting broccoli with sesame and cauliflower pickles. However, the standout was a luxuriously creamy potato mash with garlic and caramelized onions. It paired beautifully with the bread. Overall, this course was a bold statement on the potential of bread to be much more than just an afterthought.

Highlights of Innovation

The following dish, which arrived, was a bit more extravagant. It was a well-prepared pointed cabbage served with caramelized apples and a smooth almond sauce. The dish was exceptional, with sweet flavors from the cabbage and almonds perfectly balanced by the tartness of the apples. Overall, it was a delicious and harmonious dish.

One of the most memorable dishes, perhaps due to its sheer indulgence, was the white truffle pasta. The dish was a deep dive into luxury and served in a modest portion, perfect for savoring its rich flavors. Freshly shaved truffles were added to the creamy beurre blanc sauce, creating an intoxicating aroma.

The next plate creatively combined chijimisai*, a leafy green from Japan’s brassica family, with perfectly roasted Jerusalem artichokes, resulting in a fascinating and flavorful combination. The dish was further elevated with a delicate and delicious vin jaune sauce.

The tortelloni I had for my last savory course had a delicious filling of girolles and trompette mushrooms. The chefs used a combination of linseeds and sunflower seeds to make the pasta dough, which gave it a unique texture and flavor. While I enjoyed the dish, I couldn’t help but think that a classic pasta dough would have complemented the filling even better.

A Sweet Finale: Desserts That Delight and Inspire

At TIAN, the dessert journey started with a playful cheesecake lollipop paired ingeniously with elderberry and served with fermented plums on the side. This pre-dessert was a refreshing contrast of flavors and textures. The cheesecake had a delightful creamy texture, beautifully balanced by the tartness of the elderberry and the slightly fizzy, tangy plum foam.

The main dessert was a pear parfait, a traditional and exquisite offering. It was elegantly composed alongside a caramel choux, providing a satisfying crunch against the smooth parfait. A scoop of mascarpone and amazake* ice cream completed the dish. While rooted in classic techniques, this dessert offered a comforting conclusion to the meal with its rich, layered flavors.

Mignardises: A Heavenly Assortment

Yet, the culinary journey did not end there. The mignardise selection was a treasure trove of miniature delights, allowing me to indulge in an assortment of homemade chocolates, pâte de fruits, caramelized nut cookies, and bonbons. This part of the meal was delightful as I could choose from an array of beautifully crafted sweets.

Reflecting on a Vegetarian Paradise

As I exited TIAN, I couldn’t help but feel inspired by the restaurant’s philosophy. Vegetarian cuisine can be both delicious and an exceptional gastronomic experience. Every bite of their inventive dishes reminded me that sustainable and thoughtful cooking could be remarkable and take us on an incredible culinary journey.

If you ever find yourself in Vienna, you must visit TIAN. Not only will you enjoy a delicious meal, but you’ll also have a unique dining experience that challenges traditional vegetarian cuisine. The chefs create each dish with a story in mind—a narrative that speaks to the traditions, innovations, and pure joy of eating. After my visit, I left with a newfound appreciation for what vegetarian cuisine can accomplish, and I’m eager to return. Whether you’re a vegetarian or not, TIAN is an adventure for your taste buds that promises to inspire.

Culinary Dictionary:

Ishikura: A Japanese variety of long, slender, and mild spring onion, bulb-less and sweet.

Amazake: A sweet, non-alcoholic Japanese drink made from fermented rice, used to add creaminess and sweetness in cooking.

Schüttelbrot: Schüttelbrot is a traditional, crispy flatbread from Austria, particularly from the Tyrol region. It is known for its thin, brittle texture and distinct rye flavor, seasoned with various herbs like caraway seeds.

Chijimisai: A hybrid Japanese green with a tender texture and a mild, peppery flavor, often used in salads or light cooking.