Lunch to Remember: Exploring The Ledbury’s 3 Michelin Star Magic

This was my first visit to The Ledbury, and I was thrilled to see it back on London’s culinary map. The restaurant had a reputation for excellence, and I was eager to see if it lived up to the hype.

Upon arrival, a warm welcome greeted me, and the waiters showed me to my table. The dining room, intimate and open, created a cozy atmosphere that immediately put me at ease. The lunch menus were reasonably priced for a three-star establishment, with a six-course tasting at £180 and an eight-course at £200. However, there was no menu for me. Instead, I placed myself in the capable hands of the chefs, ready for whatever culinary delights they had in store.

Canapés and Starters: A Symphony of Flavors

My culinary journey began with a personal visit from Head Chef Tom Spenceley, who brought out the canapés himself. He presented a selection of delightful homemade charcuterie crafted by Brett Graham, the esteemed chef-patron of The Ledbury. The tempura scallop with a seaweed condiment was my favorite among the delightful bites. It was perfectly crispy and tender, complementing the rich and savory charcuterie.

The first official course set the bar high. A small plate of ikejime* chalk stream trout arrived, looking as stunning as it tasted. The trout was incredibly light and refreshing, paired with an apple marigold sorbet that added a unique, fragrant twist. Frozen petals, blood orange segments, and freshly grated yuzu skin completed the dish. The balance of freshness, acidity, and flavor harmony made this dish an early star of the meal and perhaps my favorite of the day.

Another fish course followed: Black bream served with cauliflower, black truffles, and a hint of Earl Grey. While the truffle vinaigrette was deliciously rich, I found the dish slightly lacking in seasoning. It was still an impressive plate, but it didn’t quite reach the heights of the previous trout dish.

Bread and Beyond

The bread service followed, featuring traditional bread alongside a black truffle brioche that deserves special mention. This brioche was incredible, so I was delighted to take some home to enjoy later. Instead of the usual butter, the chefs offered goat’s whey butter. While its originality was admirable, I wasn’t fond of the flavor.

Veal Sweetbread

Next came a sensational course: veal sweetbread glazed in beer vinegar. It was accompanied by Basque teardrop peas, beef jus infused with ponzu, and their homemade XO sauce. The front of house finished the dish tableside with a light sauerkraut foam. This small plate packed an extraordinary amount of flavor. The sweetbread was nutty and crispy, cooked to perfection, and the harmony of flavors was genuinely impressive.

Wild Turbot

Following this was a beautifully presented fish course: Turbot, served simply yet elegantly with razor clams, bone sauce with Iberian ham, hoshigaki*, and white asparagus. Despite its straightforward appearance, I’m sure this dish was complex to prepare. While I appreciated the overall taste, I found the dish as a whole a bit underseasoned for my palate.

Mushrooms and Game

Next on the menu was a dish celebrating the restaurant’s mushroom cabinet—an array of homegrown fungi. The chefs crafted a stunning two-flavor, three-color ravioli with mushroom and wild garlic. The filling had a deep, rich taste from caramelized ceps, generously coated in a mushroom emulsion and finished with brown butter and wild garlic stems. At the table, generous truffle shavings were added, elevating the dish to near perfection. Though the portion was small, the profound flavors made it thoroughly enjoyable.

The main course featured fallow deer, presented with a fillet, pressed shoulder, and heart, all seasoned with vadouvan salt. The chefs paired this impressive dish with beetroot puree, rhubarb, and a coffee-infused sauce. The combination of flavors and techniques was indeed remarkable. However, it felt like just a very good plate of venison. Good, but not the best I’ve had.

As I anticipated the desserts, I couldn’t help but reflect on the impressive journey my taste buds had experienced so far.

Dessert Extravaganza at The Ledbury

As a confessed dessert lover, I always look forward to the sweet ending of a meal. The Ledbury did not disappoint. The dessert journey began with a lovely little pre-dessert of Meyer lemon*. This dish featured Meyer lemon curd, yogurt semifreddo, and honey, finished tableside with a burnt honey and Meyer lemon granita. It was the perfect refreshing start—light, fresh, and delightfully textured with the cold granita, semifreddo, crispy meringue, and the subtle sweetness of honey.

The next dessert was a chocolate creation with quince, Jerusalem artichoke, toasted vanilla ice cream, white chocolate, and tonka. This modern interpretation of classic flavors was enjoyable, especially the ice cream, though it felt somewhat out of sync with the rest of the meal. Nonetheless, it was still a well-executed dish.

Millefeuille Marvel and Truffle Triumph

The highlight of the dessert course was an impeccable millefeuille of arlettes with caramelized Gariguette strawberries, green matcha chips, and a diplomat cream infused with long pepper. Accompanying this was a white chocolate chantilly with a strawberry sorbet and fromage blanc ripple. The privilege of eating French Gariguette strawberries in March was extraordinary, and these were fantastic. The arlette puff pastry was crispy, and the strawberry flavor was exceptional. The side elements added a refreshing balance to the typically heavy millefeuille, making this my absolute favorite dessert of the day.

When I thought the meal had concluded, Sous Chef Harry presented a stunning finale: cep and roasted vanilla ice cream with black truffles, brown butter, caramelized white chocolate, and raw and cooked cookie dough. This was a masterpiece, with profound flavors from the truffles, a perfect blend of sweet and savory, and an umami finish. It was simple yet top-notch.

Michelin Star Magic

As the meal drew to a close, I enjoyed a selection of lovely petit fours and a comforting rooibos tea. My lunch at The Ledbury spanned three hours, a delightful journey through an array of exquisite flavors and innovative dishes. Despite a few minor details that could be overlooked, the overall experience was exceptional.

This visit to The Ledbury was a treat I had eagerly anticipated, and it did not disappoint. Although the style of cuisine, with its complexity and multitude of ingredients, may not align perfectly with my preference, it was an impressive showcase of culinary artistry. My bill, totaling around £280 for a tasting menu, three glasses of wine, and a tea, seemed reasonable for a three-starred restaurant in London, especially with rising prices everywhere.

I must extend my heartfelt thanks to the chefs for their exceptional treatment and the thoughtful gifts upon my departure—a pale ale from Brett Graham, rapeseed oil, and two pieces of black truffle brioche to take home. These gestures were greatly appreciated, and the brioche, in particular, was simply amazing.

I would definitely return to The Ledbury if only to get inspired by the techniques, preparations, and ingredients used in their dishes. The experience was memorable, a testament to the creativity and dedication of the talented team at this outstanding restaurant.

Culinary dictionary:

Ikejime: A Japanese method of killing fish to maintain the quality of its meat, which involves inserting a spike into the brain and quickly destroying the spinal cord.

Hoshigaki: A traditional Japanese dried persimmon known for its chewy texture and concentrated sweetness.

Meyer Lemon: A citrus fruit that is a cross between a regular lemon and a mandarin orange, known for its sweeter and less acidic flavor than regular lemons.