Mediterranean Magic: My Exquisite Meal at La Villa Madie

My Exquisite Meal at La Villa Madie

La Villa Madie is the culinary lovechild of Marielle and Dimitri Droisneau, who share their passion for this beautiful terroir through diverse and innovative cooking. The restaurant is a marriage between land and sea, offering an unforgettable dining experience in an unbeatable location.

An Enchanting Beginning

I visited La Villa Madie for lunch on a sunny Monday. Marielle Droisneau herself warmly greeted me. The service was professional from the beginning, with the staff speaking some English, although the menu was in French only. I didn’t mind. Two menus were available for lunch, and I opted for the 7-course menu.

I had just arrived and was already in awe of the magnificent view. The meal started with a refreshing drink and a wet towel for my hands. As I studied the menu, I couldn’t miss the inspiring note from the chef:

“I take you on a journey around the mysteries of my Cap Canaille. A voyage through the hinterland, the sea, the rock, and the sea spray that mark the seasons of La Villa Madie. Here, there is no beginning, no end, just the infinite passion of life. An ode to Provence, both earthy, briny, mineral, and vegetal, resonates as an invitation to discover the nature surrounding me. If I succeed, your pleasure will be mine.”

Dimitri Droisneau

A Symphony of Canapés

The meal began with two rounds of exquisite canapés, setting the bar high and hinting at the Mediterranean feast that awaited me.

First Round:

1. Refreshing Soup of Tomato and Melon: This vibrant gazpacho was a perfect start, combining the sweetness of melon with the tangy freshness of tomato.
2. Puffed Bread Stuffed with Anchovy: Served with a light onion mousse, the puffed bread offered a pleasant contrast of textures and flavors.
3. Raw Slice of Prawn with Grated Coffee: An innovative bite, subtly enhanced by the unexpected hint of coffee.

Second Round:

1. Tomato and Basil Tart with Burrata Foam: Classic flavors elevated by creamy burrata foam.
2. Traditional Panisse*: Warm and comforting, this chickpea-based delicacy was a nod to Provençal tradition.

Innovative Starter

The meal began with homemade focaccia-style bread accompanied by local olive oil, a staple in the south of France. The bread was warm and fragrant, perfect for dipping into the rich, golden oil.

For the starter, chef Dimitri chose a dish that presents his innovative approach: a revisited Niçoise salad. This signature plate was a colorful and delicious palette of flavors and textures, showcasing the finest local produce. The components included tender tuna, a perfectly cooked quail egg, and regional vegetables such as heirloom tomatoes, crisp courgettes, capers, artichokes, and olives. These were brought together by a refreshing tomato sorbet and a velvety tuna cream sauce poured tableside.

The salad was a fresh start to the meal, highlighting the local produce in a traditional and innovative way. It was, without a doubt, a Niçoise salad revisited in a 3-star manner, reflecting the chef’s creativity and respect for the terroir.

The Bounty of the Sea

As we dined facing the sea, it was no surprise that the menu featured local fish prepared with the utmost care and creativity.

Seabass and Poached Oyster

The first fish course was simple yet spectacular. A gently cooked seabass was served alongside a local poached oyster wrapped in bok choy. The garnish was minimal, featuring just local sea herbs, but the sauce made this dish extraordinary. A light oyster foam seasoned with sancho pepper* and combawa* elevated the flavors to new heights. The dish perfectly represents how simplicity, when executed well, can be utterly breathtaking.

Chapon with Mousseron Mushrooms

The second fish course, though good, unfortunately, felt somewhat repetitive in presentation. A local Chapon* (or Rascasse) paired with mousseron* mushrooms and a bouillabaisse* foam heavily flavored with star anise. While the flavors were pleasing, it could have benefitted from a more distinct presentation from the previous dish.

Carabineros Prawn

The final fish course was a masterclass in presentation and flavor combinations. A Carabineros* prawn was the star, served with a tartelette of raspberries, wild strawberries, and celery and accompanied by bisque ice cream. The servers finished the dish tableside with a light foam from the shrimp heads and a drizzle of shrimp head oil. The unexpected fruit pairing with prawn and ice cream created a surprisingly light flavor profile. The chefs cooked the Carabineros perfectly though it was slightly under-seasoned. It was a minor letdown for such a beautifully presented dish. Despite this, it was an enjoyable dish.

Artistry in the Main Course

The main course was once again a stunning display of culinary technique. A stuffed rabbit saddle was the centerpiece, accompanied by the first seasonal girolles and apricots. The dish was beautifully presented with courgettes, almonds, and a crispy belly coated in herb crumbs. An apricot puree and a light meat jus complemented the flavors perfectly, and the dish was finished tableside with a tarragon and basil emulsion.

This plate was a visual feast and a marvel to eat. The stuffed cabbage leaf with the leg added an additional layer of flavor and texture. The dish was light, the green emulsion was delicious and floral, and the apricot puree provided just the right amount of acidity.

Sweet Endings

For dessert, I enjoyed two delicious treats to wrap up the meal.

The first dessert was a personal favorite – Confit grapefruit with delicate saffron ice cream and local honey. The dish was beautifully decorated with a honey tuile* and grapefruit compote with timut pepper*. As a huge grapefruit lover, I found this dessert outstanding. The saffron ice cream worked with the grapefruit perfectly, creating a pleasant blend of sweet, bitter, acidic, and crispy elements. It was an absolute delight for the palate.

The second dessert was more comforting and centered around chocolate. Crispy chocolate tubes were filled with chocolate cream and black garlic, black garlic* and chocolate ice cream, black garlic puree, and a rich chocolate sauce. While the dessert itself was perhaps not groundbreaking, including black garlic in almost all elements added a touch of excitement and a surprising lightness to what is typically a heavy dessert.

After the desserts, I moved to the terrace below for my coffee and mignardises, enjoying the shade of the trees and the sea view. It was the perfect ending to a great meal, and I could have sat there forever. In fact, I did indulge in a tea infusion made from local herbs later on, which was delicious.

Chef’s Insight on La Villa Madie

Dining at La Villa Madie met all my expectations and then some. From the breathtaking views and impeccable service to the exquisite dishes that highlighted the best of Mediterranean cuisine, every aspect of the meal was thoughtfully crafted and beautifully executed. The restaurant’s commitment to classical techniques and local ingredients tells a compelling story of the region’s rich culinary heritage.

Some dishes, like the chapon with mousseron mushrooms, felt a bit repetitive, and the revisited Niçoise salad, though innovative, didn’t deliver the “wow” factor in terms of flavors. The chocolate dessert, despite the intriguing addition of black garlic, bordered on the predictable in its flavor profile. However, these are minor quibbles in an otherwise excellent meal.

What truly stands out at La Villa Madie is the restaurant’s devotion to showcasing local produce. Here, there’s no unnecessary extravagance or molecular gimmicks—just honest, beautifully executed dishes that celebrate the essence of Provence. Whether you’re a seasoned food enthusiast or simply seeking an exceptional dining experience, La Villa Madie should undoubtedly be on your culinary bucket list.

What’s your favorite dish that celebrates local produce? Share your culinary experiences, and let’s discuss how local ingredients make a difference in fine dining!

Culinary dictionary:

• Panisse: A Traditional Provençal dish made from chickpea flour, Panisse is often shaped into fries or cakes and fried until crispy.
• Sancho Pepper: A citrusy pepper from Japan, similar to Szechuan pepper, known for its tangy and numbing flavor.
• Combawa (Kaffir Lime): A type of lime native to Southeast Asia, prized for its fragrant leaves and zest.
• Chapon: A type of rockfish, also known as rascasse, commonly used in bouillabaisse.
• Mousseron Mushroom: A small, flavorful wild mushroom, also known as fairy ring mushroom, often found in grassy areas.
• Bouillabaisse: Traditional Provençal fish stew originating from Marseille, made with various kinds of fish, shellfish, and aromatic herbs.
• Carabineros: Large, deep-sea prawns known for their striking red color and intense, sweet flavor.
• Tuile: Thin, crisp cookies or chips, often shaped while warm to add decorative elements to dishes.
• Timut Pepper: Type of pepper from Nepal, similar to Szechuan pepper, with a unique grapefruit-like citrus flavor.
• Black Garlic: Garlic that has been fermented, resulting in a sweet, tangy flavor and soft texture.