Hélène Darroze at The Connaught: Divine Dining and Rare Elegance

Comfort and Confidence

For every dedicated gourmet, visiting a Michelin three-star restaurant is a special event. It’s an experience beyond food, merging art, culture, and hospitality into an unforgettable occasion. My visit to Hélène Darroze at The Connaught wasn’t just a dinner but a journey.

Celebrated for her heartfelt approach to cuisine, Darroze’s cooking pays homage to her southwestern French heritage while redefining the boundaries of haute cuisine. Having opened its doors in 2008, the restaurant rapidly ascended the ranks of fine dining, culminating in the prestigious accolade of a third Michelin star in 2021.

Stepping through the grand entrance of The Connaught is to be welcomed into a world of luxury. The gleaming marble, the gentle rustle of conversation, the impeccable staff – an ambience that fosters anticipation. Turning to the right of the entrance hall, you find yourself in the restaurant.

Despite its capacity, the dining room is intimate, offering an inviting warmth contrasting with its regal surroundings. As I settled into the plush, sofa-like chairs, the comforting tones of the wooden tables and lack of tablecloths suggested a disarming ease. This was not a place of pretentious austerity; instead, it spoke of a confident simplicity that focused on the core aspect of the experience – the food. Every detail, no matter how minute, reflected the chef’s philosophy. The fleur de sel jar and espelette pepper at each table were a perfect example. The service was attentive from the moment I sat down without being intrusive. With an almost invisible efficiency, the mainly Italian team created an atmosphere that allowed the dining experience to unfold naturally.

Unveiling the Spring Menu and Exquisite Canapés

My journey started with the Taste of Spring menu—a luxurious feast priced at £215, with a few select supplements. As a passionate pastry enthusiast, I surrendered to the temptation of having three desserts and pre-ordered the Armagnac Baba for good measure.

The amuse-bouche, a consommé of carrot infused with Sarawak pepper and ginger, awakened my palate. With its light sweetness, it prepared me for the gastronomic adventure. A trio of exquisitely presented canapés followed. It is pretty staggering to appreciate the meticulous detail invested in these bite-sized delights, each a testament to the art of haute cuisine.

A tartelette of white asparagus and sea bass tartare started the parade. Fresh and light, it set a good tone. Then came a beautifully presented chicken liver parfait with beetroot. The chefs balanced the parfait exquisitely with a hint of Xeres vinegar in the puree and crispy beetroot tuilles. The final treat was a warm, comforting doughnut of Vacherin Mont d’Or cheese and chestnut. This was possibly the best and prettiest canapé selection in London.

Taste of Innovation: The First Courses at Hélène Darroze at the Connaught

My first dish was an unexpected gift from the chefs – a pairing of caviar with mackerel, pink grapefruit, and kohlrabi. The generous amount of caviar and the pepperiness of the kohlrabi intensified the fresh and light dish. The slight bitterness from the grapefruit and the fresh acidity of the ponzu provided a delightful way to start my meal.

Following the delightful caviar surprise, a dish of personal resonance for Hélène Darroze was served. This was a carefully balanced assembly of raw langoustines, radish, and ginger, served with a ‘Retour d’Hanoi’ consommé. This plate was an intimate glimpse into Darroze’s life journey, inspired by her experiences in Hanoi while adopting her daughters. The raw langoustines partnered harmoniously with ginger and the crunch of radishes. I enjoyed this satisfying textural contrast. The consommé, subtly spiced, was delightful, yet it yearned for a dash of seasoning, in my opinion.

Modern Take on French Onion Soup

The pinnacle of my meal came as an inventive reimagining of the beloved French onion soup. A nest of bread slices, sculpted into a delicate rose, sat in a pool of chicken and onion consommé. Slivers of Iberico ham garnished the beautiful bread rose, adding saltiness and a hint of acidity. Underneath, a layer of caramelised onion fondue and the richness of smoky Fumaison cheese brought depth to the dish. Though its appearance might suggest simplicity, this gastronomic masterpiece was a complex fusion of flavours and textures. The comforting aroma of onion transported me back to the idea of the classic soup that inspired it. This was a simple reminder of food’s power to connect past and present.

Interestingly, the bread service followed only after these starters. It was accompanied by two types of butter, one regular – unsalted and the other with a hint of espelette pepper, a spice I’m also fond of and regularly use in my cooking. The front of house encouraged me to reach for the jar of fleur de sel on the table to season the regular butter to my liking – a unique and engaging touch that further reflected Darroze’s confident culinary approach.

Cocoa & Beetroot: Unexpected Twist on Foie Gras

As my culinary journey at Hélène Darroze at the Connaught continued, the surprise delights kept coming. The kitchen prepared an unexpected treat for me – a beautifully presented pan-fried Foie gras garnished with cocoa nibs and a subtly sweet Sauternes wine. It was a delicate symphony of flavours, where the smoothness of the foie gras met the crunchy cocoa nibs. The acidity of the koji rice, beetroot and rose petal sauce perfectly balanced the whole dish. The vibrant colours and textures of the confit and pickled beetroots on the plate added an artistic touch. Despite the typically rich nature of foie gras, this dish felt notably light.

Tandoori Lobster: Signature Style at Hélène Darroze at the Connaught

The next course was a signature dish from chef Darroze – a tandoori-spiced lobster tail, cooked to perfection and served alongside a smooth carrot puree. It was finished tableside with a refreshing beurre noisette, citrus and coriander sauce. This was a masterstroke – a sublime balance where the tandoori notes didn’t overpower the delicate lobster. Instead, it complemented the lobster in a harmonious duet, giving it centre stage.

From Italian Lightness to North African Spices

Lightness was the defining characteristic in all the dishes, which I attributed to the Italian head chef Marco Zampese’s influence. I appreciate not feeling heavy during or after the meal. It was crucial to my enjoyment, making me feel happy and satisfied.

Following the chef’s signature dish was a delicate fish course – turbot with calçots and a caviar beurre blanc with dill. In addition, the chefs garnished the plate with thin chips made from turbot skin. It was a great technique and idea to recreate the usually inedible skin. The aroma as the cloche lifted was heavenly. If I had to point out one minor fault in this dish, it needed more salt and acidity. That would have brought the entire dish to another level.

The final savoury course was a perfectly cooked pigeon breast, encrusted with puffed grains for texture, served alongside a parsnip puree and a date jus. Spices of Ras el hanout were present throughout, transporting me to the flavours of the Orient. Here, I’d like to point out the unique spices in this dish. Ras el hanout is a spice blend from North Africa, typically including cardamom, clove, cinnamon, paprika, coriander, and cumin. It’s a warming blend, adding a beautiful depth to this pigeon dish.

Pastry Perfection: Seasonal Rhubarb, Light Chocolate, and Signature Armagnac Baba

As a pastry enthusiast, the desserts were what I was eagerly awaiting. A delightful palate cleanser of bread ice cream with celery and citrus smoothed over the transition from the savoury courses.

Following this, the first dessert was a tribute to the season – Yorkshire Rhubarb with hay foam. This dessert was a balance of sweet and sour, full of vibrant rhubarb flavours. The key to this dish was its reduced, caramel-like rhubarb sauce. This concentrated essence of rhubarb provided the perfect balance of acidity, resulting in a taste almost akin to liquorice. The pastry chefs thoughtfully garnished this dessert with a refreshing rhubarb sorbet and delicate financier cake, culminating in a harmonious blend of flavours and textures. It was a magnificent seasonal dessert, a testament to the power of local, seasonal produce.

The second dessert was a seemingly light offering of chocolate paired impeccably with green cardamon and pear. The fruity chocolate sauce sealed the deal, making this dessert an absolute winner. The fruit and spice elements kept the dessert feeling light despite its richness.

The grand finale was the signature Armagnac Baba from Hélène Darroze. This classic dessert served with chantilly cream and citrus segments, was simply a joy to savour. I chose the 1982 Armagnac from the unique Darroze selection, which despite my usually mild enthusiasm for alcohol, hit just the right note.

Dessert Encore: Petits Fours and a Coffee Ceremony to Remember

My meal wasn’t over just yet. The service treated me with a variety of petits fours – a mini fried choux with an earl grey mousse, a lovely chocolate bar, and a delightful pistachio Paris Brest. It felt as if I’d stepped into a French pâtisserie.

The spectacle continued with the coffee, prepared tableside using a siphon, an old traditional technique that originated in Germany. This technique was special for Hélène Darroze, as it was how her grandfather prepared coffee. Watching this technique is fascinating; it delivers a clean cup of coffee. The result was a perfectly brewed cup that was the ideal accompaniment to my petits fours.

The kitchen is where I express my feelings and my passion.

Hélène Darroze

Reflecting on My Meal at Hélène Darroze at the Connaught

Seated in the comfortable surroundings, savouring my coffee and petits fours, I had plenty of time to reflect on my four-hour culinary journey. I was in no rush to leave. The ambience, the food, and the excellent service made me feel at home. This meal reaffirmed my love for fine dining and left me looking forward to my next visit.

The chef herself once said, “The kitchen is where I express my feelings and my passion.” This sentiment resonated in each dish served, reflecting the love and creativity that goes into making each dish a culinary masterpiece.

I had the privilege of dining in most of the three-star establishments in London, and I can confidently say that, along with Sketch Lecture Room and Library, Hélène Darroze at the Connaught provided me with the best three-star dining experience in the city. It is a true representation of a top-notch establishment and met all my expectations. The restaurant offers a unique blend of French and Italian influences, a delightfully light menu, and an unrushed and personal experience – a perfect meal in a perfect setting. If you are looking for a gastronomic adventure in London, I highly recommend considering Hélène Darroze at the Connaught. You will not be disappointed.