Discover Astrance: Revolutionary Feast of Elegance in Paris

Astrance: A Modern Classic

When one thinks of French cuisine, images of butter pastries, indulgent cheeses, and rich sauces often come to mind. French cuisine can also tell a different story, one of innovation, freshness, and a harmonious blending of international influences. This revelation came to me at the newly opened Astrance, a restaurant that perfectly sums up the essence of modern French cuisine.

But before we delve into my culinary adventure, let’s step back into history. Astrance is no newcomer to the world of haute cuisine. It’s a rebirth of the original three-Michelin-star establishment, which Pascal Barbot and Christophe Rohat founded in 2000. Over the years, this dynamic duo, both alumni of the illustrious L’Arpège, earned their reputation for creativity and modern approach to French cuisine, swiftly earning three Michelin stars and making Astrance a pilgrimage for food lovers worldwide.

After a change of location, L’Astrance has once again opened its doors. It presents a new narrative of what French cuisine can be. Here’s an account of my unforgettable experience.

Embarking on the Astrance Experience: Anticipation, Arrival, and Atmosphere

Now nestled in the heart of Paris where Joël Robuchon’s Jamin once stood, I was tinged with anticipation and, I’ll admit, a touch of apprehension. A morning of travel mishaps and a looming return journey to London had left me more than a little frazzled. I hoped the meal ahead would provide the comfort and distraction I craved. And it did.

The restaurant exuded a modern yet intimate vibe, a departure from its earlier avatar yet still holding on to its essence. Once the symbol of fine dining, Christophe Rohat replaced the tablecloths with simplicity and nature-inspired decorations. The piece de resistance on my table was a miniature fig tree, a nod to the restaurant’s harmonious blend of nature and sophistication.

The comfortable yet professional front-of-house team highlighted the atmosphere. There’s something uniquely engaging about the team at Astrance. Dressed in relaxed attire, complete with comfortable sneakers, they represent a fresh departure from the stiff formality often associated with fine dining. Christophe Rohat himself attended to me with a presence that was professional but not overbearing, making me feel at ease. Despite the renowned reputation of Astrance, the environment felt wonderfully laid-back.

Astrance Four-Course Lunch Selection and Initial Impressions

I selected the four-course lunch over the more extensive tasting menu. Before the culinary journey began, the front of house handed me a hot towel for my hands, a surprising but thoughtful touch that showcased their attention to detail.

The opening act was a stunning canapé: a tartelette featuring a daring combination of turnip and strawberry resting on a cereal cracker base. The peppery bite of the turnip, met with the sweetness of the strawberry, provided an unusual yet delightful balance of flavours. The cracker base gave the canapé an irresistibly crunchy texture.

The amuse-bouche followed – a French delicacy of sea whelk served with a seaweed mayonnaise. I enjoyed this refreshing bite, while sea whelks might not be everyone’s cup of tea. It was a fantastic palate teaser before my meal.

As my Monday blues faded away with each bite, I looked forward to the rest of my meal. Little did I know, the best was yet to come.

Savouring the Season: The Elegant Asparagus Starter

Continuing the culinary journey at L’Astrance, I found myself at the beginning of a series of sublime dishes that felt elegant and exceedingly light and fresh.

My starter was a vibrant representation of the season: a dish of green asparagus served with almond cream, confit lemon, and saffron. The asparagus tips steamed to a perfect al dente, met their unexpected but delightful companion in the form of the smooth almond cream. The confit lemon added a refreshing zing, cutting through the richness and enhancing the natural sweetness of the asparagus. The plate was garnished with shavings of raw asparagus, lightly marinated in saffron, adding an extra layer of complexity. My only minor critique was that the dish could have benefited from more seasoning; a touch more salt could have catapulted it from being good to extraordinary.

A Lesson in Culinary Simplicity: Grilled Toothfish, Bisque des Crustacés and Celery

The fish course was a gastronomic lesson in simplicity and flavour: grilled toothfish, bisque des crustacés, confit celery and lemon. Toothfish, a species less common on restaurant menus but widely known as Chilean sea bass or”Légine’ in French. The toothfish was grilled to perfection with its white, buttery flesh that blends the meaty texture of a hearty fish with a certain delicate refinement.

A note on toothfish: it’s a deep-sea dweller known for its rich, oil-infused flesh that grills exceptionally well, making it a popular choice for chefs looking to present something a little different.

The grilled fish was served with a bisque des crustacés, a sublime shellfish bisque. The bisque was a triumph, robust yet refined. The confit celery, a typically overlooked vegetable, provided a surprising but welcome contrast to the rich, succulent fish. This plate of food perfectly illustrates how less can be more when executed skillfully. It was so enjoyable that I found myself wanting to savour it indefinitely.

Accompanying the fish was a bowl of pickles and Koshihikari rice. It’s a variety renowned for its sweet flavour, sticky texture, a signature side of Chef Pascal Barbot. Both additions spoke volumes about the chef’s modern approach and the influence of Japanese culture on his cuisine.

The Brilliantly Simple Lamb

The main course was a generous portion of lamb rack, cooked to perfection. It was served simply with a delightful jus, dates stuffed with ginger and citrus, and pickled piquillo peppers.

The lamb rack’s simplicity was brilliant. The chefs presented it in the most honest and straightforward way. The jus carried a robust flavour that enhanced the lamb’s sweetness, while the pickled piquillos offered a spicy contrast, a welcome kick against the dish’s overall richness.

On the side, the chefs prepared a little bowl of seasonal vegetables, including turnips, peas, and asparagus. These were not mere accompaniments but stars in their own right. The vegetables were cooked until they were just tender, their natural flavours and textures enhanced by a rich butter emulsion. Each bite was a taste of the season and a symphony of fresh, vibrant flavours.

The main course, while apparently simple, was a culinary masterpiece. The lamb was the star. However, each garnish and side stood out, coming together to create a harmony of exquisite flavours, textures, and tastes.

Dessert and Final Impressions

Before dessert, the ever-attentive Christophe Rohat offered a pre-dessert: a ginger and lemongrass sorbet. Hot and refreshing, it was an unexpected but welcome palate cleanser.

Dessert was a modern take on a tartelette, with rhubarb and strawberry taking centre stage. The pastry chefs replaced the traditional tart shell with a thin layer of feuille de brick, its lightness and crispness providing a delicate contrast to the tart’s contents. Hidden beneath an almond milk foam was an acidic compote of strawberry and rhubarb, a delicious blend of tartness and sweetness. A strawberry sorbet provided a cold, refreshing contrast. Including raw celery shavings on the tartelette once again highlighted Chef Pascal’s boldness in integrating vegetables into desserts.

In Retrospect: The Magic of L’Astrance

Reflecting upon my experience at L’Astrance, the term ‘unforgettable’ springs readily to mind. The restaurant stands as a unique monument in gastronomy, a testament to the creative genius of Chef Pascal Barbot and the careful stewardship of maître d’hôtel Christophe Rohat. Their relentless pursuit of culinary innovation, combined with their respect for traditional cooking techniques, offers a dining experience that is simultaneously modern and timeless.

Chef Pascal Barbot has spent the last 20 years innovating and reinventing traditional French cuisine, which some critics may deem outdated. This is certainly not the case at L’Astrance. The meal was exceptionally light, leaving me full but not weighed down. The modern dining room, relaxed service, and professionalism displayed both front and back of house were outstanding.

The skill with which Chef Pascal marries flavours, textures, and culinary techniques is simply awe-inspiring. His willingness to redefine boundaries and challenge conventional wisdom sets him apart in the culinary world.

Evaluating the Experience and Final Thoughts

Regarding value, while L’Astrance sits firmly in the fine dining bracket, I feel that the quality of food, level of service, and overall dining experience offer excellent value for money. Every detail, from the carefully curated menu to the thoughtful service, contributes to a dining experience worth every penny.

To those contemplating a visit to L’Astrance, I recommend the four-course lunch. It’s a dining experience that captures the essence of Chef Pascal’s culinary vision. And don’t overlook the tea selection – a surprising highlight that adds a delightful conclusion to the meal.

All these factors and the spirit of innovation make it clear why I will soon return to L’Astrance for a whole menu experience—my profound thanks to Chef Pascal Barbot, Monsieur Christophe Rohat, and the entire L’Astrance team. Your inspired creations and dedication to your craft have provided an unforgettable dining experience and broadened my understanding and appreciation of the culinary arts.