AM par Alexandre Mazzia: A Gastronomic Revelation in Marseille

Revelations from AM par Alexandre Mazzia

As a dedicated admirer of Marseille and its culinary offerings, I find myself drawn to this captivating city in the south of France year after year. Each visit renews my affection for its vibrant culture and diverse cuisine.

Among the modest bistros, pizza stalls, and kebab shops, Marseille boasts several fine dining restaurants that elevate its gastronomic landscape. One such establishment had long been on my radar: AM par Alexandre Mazzia. This year, my birthday provided the perfect occasion to finally indulge in this highly acclaimed dining experience.

Chef Alexandre Mazzia, a maestro in the culinary world, has earned a reputation for his innovative approach and meticulous attention to detail. His journey from the Congo to Marseille informs his unique style, blending bold flavors and unexpected textures that challenge and delight the palate.

The anticipation was high as I prepared to embark on this gastronomic adventure, eager to discover what sets Chef Mazzia’s restaurant apart in a city already brimming with culinary treasures.

Arriving at AM par Alexandre Mazzia, I received a warm welcome that set the tone for the evening. Though tiny and intimate, the dining room exudes exclusive charm. Seated at the counter directly opposite the kitchen pass, I saw the chefs in action—a true treat for any culinary enthusiast. To my delight, Chef Mazzia himself was overseeing the pass.

I began my evening with a refreshing cocktail and eagerly anticipated my ‘middle voyage.’ The first journey consisted of a selection of eight small bites. It was a pleasant surprise to see so many plates arrive at once, reminiscent of Pierre Gagnaire’s style of service.

The canapés were all delightful, but a few were particularly memorable. The galanga biscuit with sliced beef and Campari jelly was an unexpected yet harmonious combination. Equally impressive was the grey shrimp consommé with bonito and chili oil.

Other notable canapés included:

• Raw fish with tuna vinegar—a perfect blend of freshness and tang.
• Crystallized cabbage leaf with caviar, ginger, and burnt mackerel—a textural marvel.
• Sweet and sour courgette with a potato leaf—a delightful contrast of flavors.
• Wild shrimp with root vegetables and sumac—earthy and robust.
• Seaweed, sweet potato, licorice, and bottarga—a complex and intriguing bite.
• Parmesan cracker with pistachio and aloe vera—a crunchy, nutty finish.

Each bite was a culinary revelation, showcasing Chef Mazzia’s mastery of blending uncommon ingredients with elegant simplicity.

First, I had a trio of smaller bites, each more outstanding than the last. The first was a cup of smoked almond milk, wild salmon, and trout eggs marinated in sake. Though it appeared deceptively simple with its white foam, it was delicious. The salty eggs popping in my mouth paired perfectly with sake, smoked milk, and almond flavors.

Next, there was a vegan shortbread with a herby condiment. The textures and flavors were genuinely remarkable: Two different crispy pastries. One made with cereal bread, hazelnut oil, and Espelette pepper. Another texture was made with walnut bread and ginger. Condiments included red cumin, bergamot, and pomelo flesh with caraway seeds. A layer of herbal paste, spices, and fish roe was in between. Finally, flowers and fresh sprouts are used as decoration.

The last bite was one of Chef Mazzia’s signatures: a smoked eel and dark chocolate tartelette. This dish holds a unique story. When Chef Mazzia used to go fishing with his father, his dad always carried a chocolate bonbon in his pocket, which he would give to the young Mazzia while fishing. This cherished memory inspired the creation of this unique and nostalgic dish.

The next part of the journey featured a service of four plates, accompanied by a piece of smoked Viennese bread with kaffir lime butter. I was immediately stunned by the presentation, which was incredibly eye-catching.

First up was a plate of beautifully decorated razor clams with puffed barley, seaweed condiment, and an egg nog. This delicate plate was enjoyable, though it lacked some wow factor.

However, the following two larger plates were simply extraordinary. The presentation was almost secondary to the mind-blowing taste. A standout was a plate of mussels, herring, and mackerel with a coconut and tarragon sauce and a mojito condiment. The freshness of the ingredients, the fresh flavor of the fish, and the subtle coconut and tarragon notes combined to create a truly exceptional dish.

A simple couscous flavored with orange blossom, horseradish, and a shellfish bisque was equally impressive. This was, without a doubt, the best plate of couscous I have ever had. The bisque and orange blossom paired perfectly, making the dish taste profound yet light.

Next, I was served only two plates, confirming that we were in a three-star setting where a virtuoso creates dishes. This time, another bread appeared on the table—a focaccia-style bun made with peanut butter, Espelette pepper, and licorice, all served with spicy butter.

The main plates were again extraordinary in flavor and presentation. First was a simply cooked Carabinero prawn with three different sauces. One was a beurre blanc made with saffron and coffee, another was emulsified with sea plankton, and the last was a sweet pepper gel. The prawn was perfectly cooked, and the sauces’ harmony was impeccable. Each had its distinct flavor, yet they somehow made the plate feel cohesive as they paired with one another. Simply stunning.

The second plate was also a winner. It featured avocado with smoked cauliflower puree, grilled chicken skin, and two sauces—a reduction of carrot and cumin and a strong prawn head emulsion. I mean, where does one come up with combinations like this? Two sauces with vegetarian-inspired elements—to die for. The sauces made the plate.

The main voyage consisted of six plates featuring mainly vegetables, unusual ingredients, and flavors. Each dish showcased Chef Mazzia’s creativity and mastery.

One of the standout dishes was green beans with a sweet and sour gel, raspberry harissa, and a green satay sauce. The combination was extraordinary, blending unexpected flavors into a harmonious bite.

A burnt and marinated watermelon dish served with seaweed-flavored sorghum seeds, chili skin, and a meat jus was equally impressive. The play of textures and flavors was both surprising and delightful.

A wasabi and horseradish ice cream was served to cleanse the palate. While necessary after the variety of plates, I wished it had come at the end, as I had to taste it before finishing the rest.

The main voyage was an extraordinary experience, filled with unique flavors and a distinctive style. No meat protein was on the plates; vegetables, fish, and seafood were the true heroes. And the sauces—to die for once again.

It was time for dessert, and I eagerly looked forward to it. Five smaller plates arrived in the style of Pierre Gagnaire’s grand dessert, each promising a unique flavor experience.

A dulce de leche and green matcha tea ice cream prepared the palate for what would come. The original flavors, many inspired by Chef Mazzia’s childhood, were delightful.

One of the highlights was a bread and butter pudding with caramelized banana espuma, reminiscent of traditional banana bread. The thin sweet potato and mango carpaccio with date puree and marjoram water added a nice, innovative touch.

I particularly enjoyed the spicy plum with praline and hibiscus paired with orange blossom water and passionfruit. This little bite was not overly sweet and had a lovely floral essence.

One of Chef Mazzia’s childhood favorites was the fermented banana cream with puffed rice and peanuts with kumquat. While I found it too sweet, it was still reasonably original.

To conclude, a delightful assortment of seven petit fours was served, again demonstrating the chefs’ dedication to their craft. Each of these small bites was perfect, with its distinct flavor profiles. I was so overwhelmed by this time that I didn’t even remember my favorite! Here’s the lineup:

1. Saffron and pineapple sorbet with a spiced gel
2. Corn parfait, grilled corn meringue, and 25-year-old balsamic vinegar
3. Shortbread with sweet potato and raspberry
4. Avocado mousse with ginger, fennel, and mustard seeds
5. Strawberry with chili, tarragon, and poppy seeds
6. Guava and mango with almond powder and sweet potato
7. Green apple iced cubes with green curry apple water and gin mist

I finished my dinner with a nice herbal infusion, bringing a soothing end to an evening of extraordinary flavors and culinary artistry.

Where to begin? AM par Alexandre Mazzia is unlike any other restaurant I have ever experienced. It’s intimate and tiny, and its unique style is evident in every aspect—from the chef to the flavors and dishes presented. I enjoyed it immensely.

One might argue that it’s easy to get lost amidst all the small plates; perhaps they are right. It may have felt confusing toward the end, but Chef Mazzia’s style, presentation, and flavor profiles blew me away. Being accustomed to this style of service with many plates, I didn’t mind it at all.

The presence of vegetables and fish throughout the menu and delicious and unique sauces left a lasting impression on me. I will definitely come back. However, more than one visit is necessary to truly enjoy and truly analyze this restaurant.

Of course, the price tag reflects the recognition of a three-star Michelin establishment. For my middle voyage, cocktail, wine, and an infusion, the bill was over 500 euros for one person. Some say we live only once, and for those who embrace this philosophy, I encourage you to venture to this excellent restaurant at least once. It’s an experience that is both unique and unforgettable.